Apparatus for corrugating collars for wear



Oct. 16, 1934. H. s. HELE-SHAW APPARATUS FOR CORRUGATING COLLARS FORWEAR Filed Oct. 29, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet l Oct. 16, 1934. H. s. HELE-SHAWAPPARATUS FOR CORRUGATING COLLARS FOR WEAR Filed Oct. 29, 1932 3Sheets-Sheet 2 Oct. 16, 1934. H s, HELESHAW 1,976,882

APPARATUS FOR CORRUGATING COLLARS FOR WEAR Filed Oct. 29, 1932 3Sheets-5heet 3 9&5:- scription, conjunction with-the accompanyingPatented Oct. 16, 1934 PATENT-OFFICE APPARATUS FOR GORRUGATING ooLLARsFOR WEAR i 7 Henry Selby Hele-Sham'Westminster, London, I

England Application October 29, i932, Serial No. 640,368

' In Great Britain April 23, 1932 3 Claims.' (01. 223-42):

The present invention concerns improvements in-"or r'elatingto apparatusfor corrugating the inner band of a stiiT double collar for personalwear,'which apparatus is characterized by the useof a plurality oftoothed elements so arranged that the teeth of one element are adaptedto mesh with those of "an adjacent element, and that the material to becorrugated can be passed between the meshing teeth when it is bent at aright angle along a line intermediate between the margin beingcorrugated and the opposite marginand so that the uncorrugatedmargin'may lie closely adjacent to the end of the said teeth, wherebythe uncorrugated margin may without distortion take up a suitable curvedue to the shortening of the overall length of the edge of thecorrugated margin; the invention will be describedillustratively inrelation to apparatus suitable for" corrugatin collars eitheras'a' stepin manufacture or'when re-laundered. I

On'e object of the invention is to' provide novel apparatus suitable forcorrugating the inner band of astifi double collar for personal wear inorder to give it such a form that a tie can be more readily adjustedbetween the inner and outer band'sof-the collar than is usually the caseat present. a r a Anotherobject-of the invention is to provide apparatuswhich will by corrugating it give a stiff double collar for personalwear the whole curvature necessary, whereby a collar may be made from asingle piece of plane material bent along a straight line to form thesaid piece into the inner and outer bands of the'collar.

a A further object is to provide apparatus suitable for corrugating theinner band of a stiff double collar for personal wear by means of whichthe depth or" the corrugations can be readily altered along thewholelength of acorrugation; or can be varied at one part of a corrugationrelatively to another part of a, corrugation.

"The various objects and the severalfeatures of the invention willbecomemore fully apparent to thoseiskilled inthe art from the followingdediagramrnaticidrawings, of the aforementioned illustrative apparatus.V

elevation of the app m s sh w 2;

Fig. dis a ge'neralview of the apparatus of which are shownin Figs. ,2and 3; t

Fig. 5 is a rear sectional elevation corresponding to Fig. 3 but showingdifierentmeans of support ing the'rollers;

-Fig. 6 is a partial sectional plan showing a construction offloatings'upplernentary guide that is controlled automatically bythe'collar; and

Fig. 7 is a partial sectional elevation showing tapered rollers. M

A complete collar whencorrugated by apparatus of the invention is shownin Fig. 1. 7

Figs. 2, 3 and 4 show various parts of the illustrative apparatus. Thisapparatus comprises a frame 31; in the lower part of the right hand sideof the frame there is mounted a spindle 33 which carries oneendof atoothed lower roller 35 and which is provided with a. cranked handle37." The other end of the roller35 is supported on a pin 39 (Fig.3)vwhichprojectsinwardly from apillar 41 screwed to the base of theirame31. V A toothedupper roller 43'is mounted upon a spindle 45 which iscarried by two floating bearings 4'7, oneat each endof the spindle; thebearings are helddown .by compression springs 49, the strengthof whichis adjusted by screws 51 hearing on discs "53 resting on thetops of thesprings. Thus the upper roller 43 will automatically rise and fallrelatively to the lower roller 35. according to the thickness of,material being operatedupon; itis'to be noted that each end of theroller'43 can moveindependently-of the other. Further, each end isindependently adjustable by theassociated screw5l. By suitableadjustment of the screws 51 a greater pressure may be exerted at theouter edge of the material anda lesser pressure adjacent to theturn-overedge 15; thus a. greater depth of corrugation may be obtainedatthe former location thanat the latter. I

The outer ends of the teeth of .the rollers are rounded as indicated at44' so as to avoid injury to the collarat the turn-over edge 15 if thecorrugations are carried approximately to that edge. The longitudinaledges of the teeth are rounded (regarded in cross-section) so that thecorrugations are rounded, for example, approximately semi-circular, incross-section. In this particular construction the teeth of each rollerare parallel with its axis, and are of equal depth throughout theirlength; the nature of the corr-ugating. process, however, is the samewhatever thefshape ofthe teeth. I :For example, the pitch surface of thetoothe elements mightbe conical with the greatest diparts ameteradjacent to the turn-over edge of the collar as indicated in Fig. '7. Itis found that the point of intersection of the axes of the two rollingpitch surfaces should be from 2. to 3 feet from the turn-over edge, thiscorresponding to the average curvature of the turn-over edge of usualcollars. With such toothed elements the guiding of the collar is mucheasier and the guiding mem bers may be simplified.

The overall diameter of each roller 35, 43,- is about l and the diameterat the root of the teeth is about There-are twelve -teethon each roller.With rollers and teeth of this size a collar is gripped firmly at. onetime byonly one tooth of one roller between two teeth of the otherroller; as a result the collar can readily turn in the requisite curveduring the, corru-' gating operation.

Fig. 5 indicates a method of supporting the lower roller from one endonly but comparatively rigidly. The spindle 33.is supported inthe frame31, but it is also supported in a pillar 32 which is spaced from theadjacent upright of the frame 31; the roller 35 is supported upon theoverhung tion. If desired a guide of known form maybe used by means ofwhich a flat strip or sheetof material 'may be bent to approximately aright angle as it passes through the guide the walls of the guidebeingso shaped that the material is gradually bent about a longitudinal linecorresponding to the turn-over edge 15 of a collar. Theupper left handcorner of the'g'uide 61 is provided with a small extension groove 65 toaccommodate theupper edge 16 of the tab of a collar in case the said tabprojects as shownat 16 (Fig. 1) as it frequently does 'to improve-thelocking qualities of the tab {the extension groove 65 is so proportionedthat the outer band-19 of the collar can pass through the guide 61 withits face against the adjacent lefthand upright face of the guide.,Ifdesired' the guidefil may extend beyond the corrugating rollers toform'a delivery orifice through the casing 67(Eig. 4) which encloses therollers and guide. H

The aperture 69 in the guide 61 through which the collar passes iswider'than the thickness of the collar in order to permit of easymovement of the collar therethrough. To keep the collar pressed to theleft adjacent to the 'corrugating rollers and so prevent the rollersfrom overriding the turn-over edge 15 on to the band 19 there isprovided on the guide 61 a supplementary guide in the form'of afloatingbar 71 (Fig. 2) which is pulled towards the left by a' centralspring'73. Projecting downwardly from the bar '71 through slots '75 'inthe guide 61 are two pins 77; the diameter of the pins is less thanthewidth of the slots 75 so that the a e permitted a certain, lateralmovement. Thepins '77 thus'form a guide by means of which the inner band17 of the collar is pressed towards the left (if desired the pins '77may carry anti-friction rollers for contacting with the edge of thecollar band) this floating guide automatically rocks to adjust itself tothe curve of the lower edge (right-hand edge in the apparatus) of theinner band 17. when th'e-colhas an operating handle at 83.

If desired the floating bar 71 might be operated vby means of a treadle(for example, by a link 85) instead of by means of the handle 83. Oneadvantage of such a construction is that the operator would have bothhands free for manipulating the article to be corrugated.

If desired the corrugating rollers may be driven by power instead of byhand; between the drive and the rollers there may be a free-wheel deviceso that reverse movement of the rollers may be prevented. There may alsobe a clutch which may be put into and out of action by movement of theguide means 7'7 or of an associated part, for example'the lever 79.

If desired the number of articles passing through the machinemay becounted by means of a counter (as indicated at 87, Fig. 5) actuated, forexamplaby movement of the guide means 77 or of anassociated part.

I If desired a distinctive number allocated to theparticularmachineproducing the corrugationsmay be placed on each article(collar) passing through the machine. "This may be done by a die on theedge of a roller having contact pressure with an inner surface of thearticle. Such means may also be used for recording the number of the,patent-under'which the corrugating is produced, I

The casing: 6'7 encloses the Whole apparatus and has a flared opening at89 to lead into the flared-opening69'of the guide 61.

The operation is as fOlIOWSI- Assume that a collar is to be corrugatedas indicated in Fig. 1. The collanwith its two bands 17 and 19 atapproximately right angles, is entered into the fiared entrance 89 ofthe casing andso into the guide 61 and is pushed towards the rollers 35,45 and atthe same time the handle 83 is operated to move the guide means(the bar 71 and the pins 7'7) to the right. As soon as the end of thecollar enters'the bite of the rollers the handle 83 is released and' thespring '73 causes the pins 77 to force the collar towards the left, thuskeeping the collar incorrect position relatively to the rollers :duringits passage between the latter. As thecollar passes through theapparatus its inner band 1'7, is corrugated with a large number ofclosely-spaced corrugations of small arc and consequently the lower edgeof the band 17 is somewhat shortened, with the result that the collar asit leavesthe rollers curves towards the right which itisable to dofreely. The collar is positioned relatively to the rollers so that thecorrugations 21 in the band 17 are of the desired length transverselyofthe band. Preferably they do not quite reach the turn-over edge 15.

' It is to be'obs'ervedthat during the operation the turn-over edge 15of the collar does not alter in length but the free edge-of the innerband 1'? is shortened and the band 17 either takes a curved form or itscurvature is increased; the outer band 19 simultaneously bends round tofollow the curving of the band 17.

The construction of the apparatus allows the corrugation to take placereadily along one margin of the collar material being corrugated; if thematerial were not bent along the turn-over edge 15 to permit curvaturethe corrugating operation would cause the other margin (the outer band19) to buckle or distort.

If desired the guide 61 may be made adjustable towards and from theouter ends of the rollers, so that the corrugations formed in a collarmargin may be varied by being adjusted to a desired distance from theturn-over edge.

Referring to Fig. 6 the supplementary guide 71 is not manuallycontrolled. The spring '73 is replaced by a long spring 90 so that theeffect of the spring is approximately constant in all working. positionsof the floating bar 71. Pivoted at 91 is a curved lever 93, the free end95 of which lies in the horizontal part of the guide-aperture 69 andadjacent to that pin 77 (or roller thereon) which is nearest theentrance of the machine. As the collar is pushed into the machine itcomes in contact with the convex edge of the lever 93 which in turnpushes the pin 7 7 so as to rock the v guide 69.

As previously described motion is imparted to the toothed rollers by arotary handle or gear; it is to be understood however that other meansmay be used for imparting the desired motion. One of the rollers mightbe mounted on a sleeve and so arranged that rotary motion would beimparted by axial movement of the sleeve, for example, by means of aquick acting thread connected to the roller by a free-wheel clutch.Also, instead of the rotary handle an oscillating handle connectedthrough a free-wheel device to the roller might be employed.

What I claim is:-

1. Apparatus for corrugating the inner band of a double collar,comprising intermeshing corrugating elements, guide means for passingthe inner band of the collar between said corrugating elements, andguide means for maintaining the outer band of the collar bent atapproximately a right angle to the inner band as the latter is passedbetween the corrugating elements.

2. Apparatus for corrugating the inner band of a double collar,comprising intermeshing corrugating elements, guide means for passingthe inner band of the collar between said corrugating elements, and aguide channel for engaging the outer band of the collar, bent at anangle to the inner band, and for guiding the same so that apredetermined depth of the inner band passes between and iscorrugated'by the corrugating elements.

3. Apparatus for corrugating the inner band of a double collar,comprising intermeshing corrugating elements, guide means transverse tosaid elements for the outer band bent at about a right angle to theinner band, and spring-loaded guide means for the inner edge of theinner band, operative for pressing the outer band against the firstnamed guide means as the collar is passed between the corrugatingelements.

4. Apparatus for corrugating the inner band of a double collar,comprising intermeshing corrugating elements, a guide for the outer bandbent at about a right angle to the inner band, guide means engaging theinner edge of the inner band at separated locations, loading means forpressing said guide means resiliently against said inner edge, and arockable mounting for said guide means to permit of the latter followingthe curvature of said inner edge.

5. Apparatus for corrugating the inner band of a double collar,comprising intermeshing corrugating elements, a guide for the outer bandbent at about a right angle to the inner band, guide means engaging theinner edge of the inner band, loading means for pressing said guidemeans against said inner edge, and retracting means engageable with saidguide means for moving the latter to facilitate entry of the collar.

6. Apparatus for corrugating the inner band of a double collar,comprising intermeshing corrugating elements, a guide for the outerbandbent at about a right angle to the inner band, guide means engagingthe inner edge of the inner band, loading means for pressing said guidemeans against said inner edge, and retracting means engageable by thecollar upon its entry and operative when so engaged for moving saidguide means to facilitate such entry.

'7. Apparatus for corrugating the inner band of a double collar,comprising intermeshing corrugating rolls, guide means for passing theinner band between said rolls, and guide means for maintaining the outerband of the collar at about a right angle to the inner band as thelatter is passed between the rolls, one roll having hearings on the oneside only-so that the outer band is unobstructed.

8. Apparatus for corrugating the inner band of a double collar,comprising intermeshing toothed corrugating rolls, guide means forguiding the inner hand between said rolls and guide means for guidingthe outer band of the collar at an angle to the inner band as the latteris passed between the rolls, the said rolls having conical pitchsurfaces with the larger diameter at the end adjacent to the turn-overedgeof the collar.

HENRY SELBY HELE-SHAW.

